Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales

Karunarathna, Harshinie; Horrillo-Caraballo, Jose; Kuriyama, Yoshiaki; Mase, Hajime; Ranasinghe, Roshanka; Reeve, Dominic

doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2016.09.012

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Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales

Harshinie Karunarathna

, Jose Horrillo-Caraballo, Yoshiaki Kuriyama, Hajime Mase, Roshanka Ranasinghe, Dominic Reeve

Marine Geology, Volume: 381, Pages: 194 - 208

Swansea University Authors: Harshinie Karunarathna , Dominic Reeve

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DOI (Published version): 10.1016/j.margeo.2016.09.012

Abstract

The paper analyses, compares and contrasts cross-shore morphodynamic behaviour of four diverse beaches that have very different regional settings, wave climates and sediment characteristics, with the aid of rarely available long term measurements of beach profiles and incident waves. The beaches inv...

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Published in:	Marine Geology
ISSN:	0025-3227
Published:	2016
Online Access:	Check full text
URI:	https://cronfa.swan.ac.uk/Record/cronfa30508
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first_indexed	2016-10-10T19:42:03Z
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spelling	2020-12-18T14:39:33.0153517 v2 30508 2016-10-07 Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales 0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625 0000-0002-9087-3811 Harshinie Karunarathna Harshinie Karunarathna true false 3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082 0000-0003-1293-4743 Dominic Reeve Dominic Reeve true false 2016-10-07 CIVL The paper analyses, compares and contrasts cross-shore morphodynamic behaviour of four diverse beaches that have very different regional settings, wave climates and sediment characteristics, with the aid of rarely available long term measurements of beach profiles and incident waves. The beaches investigated are Narrabeen Beach, New South Wales, Australia; Milford-on-Sea Beach, Christchurch Bay, UK; Hasaki Coast, Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan; and Joetsu-Ogata Coast, Niigata Prefecture, Japan. A statistical analysis, equilibrium beach profile analysis and Empirical Orthogonal Function analysis are used to investigate, compare and contrast spatial and temporal variability of cross shore beach profiles of the selected beaches at short-, medium- and long-term timescales. All beaches show evidence of multi-timescale morphodynamic change. Narrabeen Beach profile has the highest sensitivity to local weather patterns. Milford-on-Sea, Joetsu-Ogata and Hasaki profiles are sensitive to seasonal variation of the wave climate however, they also show some correlations with regional climate variabilities. The nature of sediment exchange across the profile, which contributes to profile shape change with time, is found to be related to sediment characteristics across the profile. At Milford-on-Sea and Joetsu-Ogata, both of which have composite profiles, sediment exchange between the upper beach and the inter-tidal zone dominates profile change, irrespective of the distinct differences in sediment composition found in the two beaches. On the other hand in Narrabeen and Hasaki where beach sediment comprises medium to find sand, sediment exchange and hence profile change occur mainly in intertidal and subtidal zones. Journal Article Marine Geology 381 194 208 0025-3227 1 11 2016 2016-11-01 10.1016/j.margeo.2016.09.012 COLLEGE NANME Civil Engineering COLLEGE CODE CIVL Swansea University RCUK 2020-12-18T14:39:33.0153517 2016-10-07T16:19:24.3732499 Faculty of Science and Engineering School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering Harshinie Karunarathna 0000-0002-9087-3811 1 Jose Horrillo-Caraballo 2 Yoshiaki Kuriyama 3 Hajime Mase 4 Roshanka Ranasinghe 5 Dominic Reeve 0000-0003-1293-4743 6 0030508-07112016113549.pdf karunarathna2016(3).pdf 2016-11-07T11:35:49.9830000 Output 2150944 application/pdf Version of Record true 2016-11-07T00:00:00.0000000 Distributed under the terms of a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 (CC-BY) Licence. false eng http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
title	Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales
spellingShingle	Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales Harshinie Karunarathna Dominic Reeve
title_short	Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales
title_full	Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales
title_fullStr	Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales
title_full_unstemmed	Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales
title_sort	Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales
author_id_str_mv	0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625 3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082
author_id_fullname_str_mv	0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625_*_Harshinie Karunarathna 3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082_*_Dominic Reeve
author	Harshinie Karunarathna Dominic Reeve
author2	Harshinie Karunarathna Jose Horrillo-Caraballo Yoshiaki Kuriyama Hajime Mase Roshanka Ranasinghe Dominic Reeve
format	Journal article
container_title	Marine Geology
container_volume	381
container_start_page	194
publishDate	2016
institution	Swansea University
issn	0025-3227
doi_str_mv	10.1016/j.margeo.2016.09.012
college_str	Faculty of Science and Engineering
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department_str	School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering{{{_:::_}}}Faculty of Science and Engineering{{{_:::_}}}School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering
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description	The paper analyses, compares and contrasts cross-shore morphodynamic behaviour of four diverse beaches that have very different regional settings, wave climates and sediment characteristics, with the aid of rarely available long term measurements of beach profiles and incident waves. The beaches investigated are Narrabeen Beach, New South Wales, Australia; Milford-on-Sea Beach, Christchurch Bay, UK; Hasaki Coast, Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan; and Joetsu-Ogata Coast, Niigata Prefecture, Japan. A statistical analysis, equilibrium beach profile analysis and Empirical Orthogonal Function analysis are used to investigate, compare and contrast spatial and temporal variability of cross shore beach profiles of the selected beaches at short-, medium- and long-term timescales. All beaches show evidence of multi-timescale morphodynamic change. Narrabeen Beach profile has the highest sensitivity to local weather patterns. Milford-on-Sea, Joetsu-Ogata and Hasaki profiles are sensitive to seasonal variation of the wave climate however, they also show some correlations with regional climate variabilities. The nature of sediment exchange across the profile, which contributes to profile shape change with time, is found to be related to sediment characteristics across the profile. At Milford-on-Sea and Joetsu-Ogata, both of which have composite profiles, sediment exchange between the upper beach and the inter-tidal zone dominates profile change, irrespective of the distinct differences in sediment composition found in the two beaches. On the other hand in Narrabeen and Hasaki where beach sediment comprises medium to find sand, sediment exchange and hence profile change occur mainly in intertidal and subtidal zones.
published_date	2016-11-01T03:37:06Z
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score	11.016235

Linkages between sediment composition, wave climate and beach profile variability at multiple timescales

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