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Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment

Iain Fairley, Jose Horrillo-Caraballo Orcid Logo, Ian Masters Orcid Logo, Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo, Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo

Remote Sensing, Volume: 12, Issue: 22, Start page: 3689

Swansea University Authors: Iain Fairley, Jose Horrillo-Caraballo Orcid Logo, Ian Masters Orcid Logo, Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo, Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo

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DOI (Published version): 10.3390/rs12223689

Abstract

Coastal dunes have global importance as ecological habitats, recreational areas, and vital natural coastal protection. Dunes evolve due to variations in the supply and removal of sediment via both wind and waves, and on stabilization through vegetation colonization and growth. One aspect of dune evo...

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Published in: Remote Sensing
ISSN: 2072-4292
Published: MDPI AG 2020
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URI: https://cronfa.swan.ac.uk/Record/cronfa55734
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Dunes evolve due to variations in the supply and removal of sediment via both wind and waves, and on stabilization through vegetation colonization and growth. One aspect of dune evolution that is poorly understood is the longshore variation in dune response to morphodynamic forcing, which can occur over small spatial scales. In this paper, a fixed wing unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), is used to measure the longshore variation in evolution of a dune system in a megatidal environment. Dune sections to the east and west of the study site are prograding whereas the central portion is static or eroding. The measured variation in dune response is compared to mesoscale intertidal bar migration and short-term measurements of longshore variation in wave characteristics during two storms. Intertidal sand bar migration is measured using satellite imagery: crescentic intertidal bars are present in front of the accreting portion of the beach to the west and migrate onshore at a rate of 0.1&#x2013;0.2 m/day; episodically the eastern end of the bar detaches from the main bar and migrates eastward to attach near the eastern end of the study area; bypassing the central eroding section. Statistically significant longshore variation in intertidal wave heights were measured using beachface mounted pressure transducers: the largest significant wave heights are found in front of the dune section suffering erosion. Spectral differences were noted with more narrow-banded spectra in this area but differences are not statistically significant. These observations demonstrate the importance of three-dimensionality in intertidal beach morphology on longshore variation in dune evolution; both through longshore variation in onshore sediment supply and through causing longshore variation in near-dune significant wave heights.</abstract><type>Journal Article</type><journal>Remote Sensing</journal><volume>12</volume><journalNumber>22</journalNumber><paginationStart>3689</paginationStart><paginationEnd/><publisher>MDPI AG</publisher><placeOfPublication/><isbnPrint/><isbnElectronic/><issnPrint/><issnElectronic>2072-4292</issnElectronic><keywords>coastal dunes; intertidal sand bar; megatidal; UAV; satellites; morphological survey; wave measurements; morphodynamics; coastal evolution; Swansea Bay</keywords><publishedDay>10</publishedDay><publishedMonth>11</publishedMonth><publishedYear>2020</publishedYear><publishedDate>2020-11-10</publishedDate><doi>10.3390/rs12223689</doi><url/><notes/><college>COLLEGE NANME</college><department>Science and Engineering - Faculty</department><CollegeCode>COLLEGE CODE</CollegeCode><DepartmentCode>FGSEN</DepartmentCode><institution>Swansea University</institution><apcterm/><lastEdited>2021-01-13T10:48:57.8931455</lastEdited><Created>2020-11-23T11:36:48.9717853</Created><path><level id="1">Faculty of Science and Engineering</level><level id="2">School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Mechanical Engineering</level></path><authors><author><firstname>Iain</firstname><surname>Fairley</surname><order>1</order></author><author><firstname>Jose</firstname><surname>Horrillo-Caraballo</surname><orcid>0000-0001-7694-3812</orcid><order>2</order></author><author><firstname>Ian</firstname><surname>Masters</surname><orcid>0000-0001-7667-6670</orcid><order>3</order></author><author><firstname>Harshinie</firstname><surname>Karunarathna</surname><orcid>0000-0002-9087-3811</orcid><order>4</order></author><author><firstname>Dominic</firstname><surname>Reeve</surname><orcid>0000-0003-1293-4743</orcid><order>5</order></author></authors><documents><document><filename>55734__18720__44bffa66517249de9fbba4969f1ab250.pdf</filename><originalFilename>55734.pdf</originalFilename><uploaded>2020-11-23T11:39:09.2008584</uploaded><type>Output</type><contentLength>8343717</contentLength><contentType>application/pdf</contentType><version>Version of Record</version><cronfaStatus>true</cronfaStatus><documentNotes>&#xA9; 2020 by the authors. 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spelling 2021-01-13T10:48:57.8931455 v2 55734 2020-11-23 Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment 568e6f260489dc8139afe77757553513 Iain Fairley Iain Fairley true false 5166f9cd40b7c8628375d3f22d1c473c 0000-0001-7694-3812 Jose Horrillo-Caraballo Jose Horrillo-Caraballo true false 6fa19551092853928cde0e6d5fac48a1 0000-0001-7667-6670 Ian Masters Ian Masters true false 0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625 0000-0002-9087-3811 Harshinie Karunarathna Harshinie Karunarathna true false 3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082 0000-0003-1293-4743 Dominic Reeve Dominic Reeve true false 2020-11-23 FGSEN Coastal dunes have global importance as ecological habitats, recreational areas, and vital natural coastal protection. Dunes evolve due to variations in the supply and removal of sediment via both wind and waves, and on stabilization through vegetation colonization and growth. One aspect of dune evolution that is poorly understood is the longshore variation in dune response to morphodynamic forcing, which can occur over small spatial scales. In this paper, a fixed wing unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), is used to measure the longshore variation in evolution of a dune system in a megatidal environment. Dune sections to the east and west of the study site are prograding whereas the central portion is static or eroding. The measured variation in dune response is compared to mesoscale intertidal bar migration and short-term measurements of longshore variation in wave characteristics during two storms. Intertidal sand bar migration is measured using satellite imagery: crescentic intertidal bars are present in front of the accreting portion of the beach to the west and migrate onshore at a rate of 0.1–0.2 m/day; episodically the eastern end of the bar detaches from the main bar and migrates eastward to attach near the eastern end of the study area; bypassing the central eroding section. Statistically significant longshore variation in intertidal wave heights were measured using beachface mounted pressure transducers: the largest significant wave heights are found in front of the dune section suffering erosion. Spectral differences were noted with more narrow-banded spectra in this area but differences are not statistically significant. These observations demonstrate the importance of three-dimensionality in intertidal beach morphology on longshore variation in dune evolution; both through longshore variation in onshore sediment supply and through causing longshore variation in near-dune significant wave heights. Journal Article Remote Sensing 12 22 3689 MDPI AG 2072-4292 coastal dunes; intertidal sand bar; megatidal; UAV; satellites; morphological survey; wave measurements; morphodynamics; coastal evolution; Swansea Bay 10 11 2020 2020-11-10 10.3390/rs12223689 COLLEGE NANME Science and Engineering - Faculty COLLEGE CODE FGSEN Swansea University 2021-01-13T10:48:57.8931455 2020-11-23T11:36:48.9717853 Faculty of Science and Engineering School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Mechanical Engineering Iain Fairley 1 Jose Horrillo-Caraballo 0000-0001-7694-3812 2 Ian Masters 0000-0001-7667-6670 3 Harshinie Karunarathna 0000-0002-9087-3811 4 Dominic Reeve 0000-0003-1293-4743 5 55734__18720__44bffa66517249de9fbba4969f1ab250.pdf 55734.pdf 2020-11-23T11:39:09.2008584 Output 8343717 application/pdf Version of Record true © 2020 by the authors. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license true eng http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
title Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment
spellingShingle Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment
Iain Fairley
Jose Horrillo-Caraballo
Ian Masters
Harshinie Karunarathna
Dominic Reeve
title_short Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment
title_full Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment
title_fullStr Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment
title_full_unstemmed Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment
title_sort Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment
author_id_str_mv 568e6f260489dc8139afe77757553513
5166f9cd40b7c8628375d3f22d1c473c
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author_id_fullname_str_mv 568e6f260489dc8139afe77757553513_***_Iain Fairley
5166f9cd40b7c8628375d3f22d1c473c_***_Jose Horrillo-Caraballo
6fa19551092853928cde0e6d5fac48a1_***_Ian Masters
0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625_***_Harshinie Karunarathna
3e76fcc2bb3cde4ddee2c8edfd2f0082_***_Dominic Reeve
author Iain Fairley
Jose Horrillo-Caraballo
Ian Masters
Harshinie Karunarathna
Dominic Reeve
author2 Iain Fairley
Jose Horrillo-Caraballo
Ian Masters
Harshinie Karunarathna
Dominic Reeve
format Journal article
container_title Remote Sensing
container_volume 12
container_issue 22
container_start_page 3689
publishDate 2020
institution Swansea University
issn 2072-4292
doi_str_mv 10.3390/rs12223689
publisher MDPI AG
college_str Faculty of Science and Engineering
hierarchytype
hierarchy_top_id facultyofscienceandengineering
hierarchy_top_title Faculty of Science and Engineering
hierarchy_parent_id facultyofscienceandengineering
hierarchy_parent_title Faculty of Science and Engineering
department_str School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Mechanical Engineering{{{_:::_}}}Faculty of Science and Engineering{{{_:::_}}}School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Mechanical Engineering
document_store_str 1
active_str 0
description Coastal dunes have global importance as ecological habitats, recreational areas, and vital natural coastal protection. Dunes evolve due to variations in the supply and removal of sediment via both wind and waves, and on stabilization through vegetation colonization and growth. One aspect of dune evolution that is poorly understood is the longshore variation in dune response to morphodynamic forcing, which can occur over small spatial scales. In this paper, a fixed wing unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), is used to measure the longshore variation in evolution of a dune system in a megatidal environment. Dune sections to the east and west of the study site are prograding whereas the central portion is static or eroding. The measured variation in dune response is compared to mesoscale intertidal bar migration and short-term measurements of longshore variation in wave characteristics during two storms. Intertidal sand bar migration is measured using satellite imagery: crescentic intertidal bars are present in front of the accreting portion of the beach to the west and migrate onshore at a rate of 0.1–0.2 m/day; episodically the eastern end of the bar detaches from the main bar and migrates eastward to attach near the eastern end of the study area; bypassing the central eroding section. Statistically significant longshore variation in intertidal wave heights were measured using beachface mounted pressure transducers: the largest significant wave heights are found in front of the dune section suffering erosion. Spectral differences were noted with more narrow-banded spectra in this area but differences are not statistically significant. These observations demonstrate the importance of three-dimensionality in intertidal beach morphology on longshore variation in dune evolution; both through longshore variation in onshore sediment supply and through causing longshore variation in near-dune significant wave heights.
published_date 2020-11-10T04:10:10Z
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