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Analysis of multi-scale morphodynamic behavior of a high energy beach facing the Sea of Japan

Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo, Hajime Mase, Yasuyuki Baba

Frontiers in Marine Science, Volume: 2

Swansea University Author: Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo

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DOI (Published version): 10.3389/fmars.2015.00051

Abstract

Monthly cross shore beach profiles measured at the Ogata Wave Observation pier located in Joetsu-Ogata Coast, Niigata Prefecture, Japan, was analysed to investigate multi-scale morphodynamic beach behaviour of the beach. The beach faces the Sea of Japan and is subjected to high energy wave condition...

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Published in: Frontiers in Marine Science
Published: 2015
URI: https://cronfa.swan.ac.uk/Record/cronfa22657
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first_indexed 2015-07-24T02:04:23Z
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spelling 2015-11-25T15:25:36.0224805 v2 22657 2015-07-23 Analysis of multi-scale morphodynamic behavior of a high energy beach facing the Sea of Japan 0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625 0000-0002-9087-3811 Harshinie Karunarathna Harshinie Karunarathna true false 2015-07-23 CIVL Monthly cross shore beach profiles measured at the Ogata Wave Observation pier located in Joetsu-Ogata Coast, Niigata Prefecture, Japan, was analysed to investigate multi-scale morphodynamic beach behaviour of the beach. The beach faces the Sea of Japan and is subjected to high energy wave conditions with strong winter/summer seasonal signature. The measured profiles show very significant variability where cross-shore movement of shoreline position and lowering of the beach at the location of measurements exceed 20 m and 4 m respectively. The shoreline position seems to follow the seasonal variability of incident wave climate where a correlation coefficient of 0.77 was found between monthly averaged incident significant wave height and the measured monthly shoreline position. During the summer months, the beach variability mostly concentrated to the sub-tidal part of the profile, while a significant amount of upper beach change was observed during the winter months. The beach profile shape was found to rotate between three different beach states in time; (i) concave reflective profile; (ii) profile with sub-tidal berm; and (iii) gentle, dissipative profile. Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis of the profiles show that the variability of beach profile shape is dominated by (a) upper shoreface steepening; (b) sub tidal berm development and dissipation; and (c) variability of the overall profile slope, which have some longer than seasonal cyclic signatures. Comparison of temporal EOFs with climate indices such as Southern Oscillation Index and Pacific Decadal Oscillation index shows notable correlations between profile change and climatic variability in the region. The analysis also shows that the morphological variability of Joetsu-Ogata Coast has similarities and some distinct spatial and temporal differences to beaches of similar kind found elsewhere. Journal Article Frontiers in Marine Science 2 Joetsu-Ogata coast, beach profile, Empirical Orthogonal Function, multi scale beach change, Southern Oscillation Index, Pacific Decadal Oscillation 31 7 2015 2015-07-31 10.3389/fmars.2015.00051 COLLEGE NANME Civil Engineering COLLEGE CODE CIVL Swansea University 2015-11-25T15:25:36.0224805 2015-07-23T15:15:21.9986683 Faculty of Science and Engineering School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering Harshinie Karunarathna 0000-0002-9087-3811 1 Hajime Mase 2 Yasuyuki Baba 3
title Analysis of multi-scale morphodynamic behavior of a high energy beach facing the Sea of Japan
spellingShingle Analysis of multi-scale morphodynamic behavior of a high energy beach facing the Sea of Japan
Harshinie Karunarathna
title_short Analysis of multi-scale morphodynamic behavior of a high energy beach facing the Sea of Japan
title_full Analysis of multi-scale morphodynamic behavior of a high energy beach facing the Sea of Japan
title_fullStr Analysis of multi-scale morphodynamic behavior of a high energy beach facing the Sea of Japan
title_full_unstemmed Analysis of multi-scale morphodynamic behavior of a high energy beach facing the Sea of Japan
title_sort Analysis of multi-scale morphodynamic behavior of a high energy beach facing the Sea of Japan
author_id_str_mv 0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625
author_id_fullname_str_mv 0d3d327a240d49b53c78e02b7c00e625_***_Harshinie Karunarathna
author Harshinie Karunarathna
author2 Harshinie Karunarathna
Hajime Mase
Yasuyuki Baba
format Journal article
container_title Frontiers in Marine Science
container_volume 2
publishDate 2015
institution Swansea University
doi_str_mv 10.3389/fmars.2015.00051
college_str Faculty of Science and Engineering
hierarchytype
hierarchy_top_id facultyofscienceandengineering
hierarchy_top_title Faculty of Science and Engineering
hierarchy_parent_id facultyofscienceandengineering
hierarchy_parent_title Faculty of Science and Engineering
department_str School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering{{{_:::_}}}Faculty of Science and Engineering{{{_:::_}}}School of Aerospace, Civil, Electrical, General and Mechanical Engineering - Civil Engineering
document_store_str 0
active_str 0
description Monthly cross shore beach profiles measured at the Ogata Wave Observation pier located in Joetsu-Ogata Coast, Niigata Prefecture, Japan, was analysed to investigate multi-scale morphodynamic beach behaviour of the beach. The beach faces the Sea of Japan and is subjected to high energy wave conditions with strong winter/summer seasonal signature. The measured profiles show very significant variability where cross-shore movement of shoreline position and lowering of the beach at the location of measurements exceed 20 m and 4 m respectively. The shoreline position seems to follow the seasonal variability of incident wave climate where a correlation coefficient of 0.77 was found between monthly averaged incident significant wave height and the measured monthly shoreline position. During the summer months, the beach variability mostly concentrated to the sub-tidal part of the profile, while a significant amount of upper beach change was observed during the winter months. The beach profile shape was found to rotate between three different beach states in time; (i) concave reflective profile; (ii) profile with sub-tidal berm; and (iii) gentle, dissipative profile. Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis of the profiles show that the variability of beach profile shape is dominated by (a) upper shoreface steepening; (b) sub tidal berm development and dissipation; and (c) variability of the overall profile slope, which have some longer than seasonal cyclic signatures. Comparison of temporal EOFs with climate indices such as Southern Oscillation Index and Pacific Decadal Oscillation index shows notable correlations between profile change and climatic variability in the region. The analysis also shows that the morphological variability of Joetsu-Ogata Coast has similarities and some distinct spatial and temporal differences to beaches of similar kind found elsewhere.
published_date 2015-07-31T03:26:51Z
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score 11.016235

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