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Gravel barrier morphodynamic response to unimodal and bimodal storm wave conditions

Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo, Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo, Kristian Ions, Douglas Pender, Kann Ozdemir

Frontiers in Marine Science, Volume: in press

Swansea University Authors: Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo, Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo, Kristian Ions

Abstract

Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adverse storm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beaches is vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. This study utilises an extensive, synthetic dataset simulated using a we...

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Published in: Frontiers in Marine Science
Published: online Frontiers
URI: https://cronfa.swan.ac.uk/Record/cronfa63015
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Abstract: Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adverse storm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beaches is vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. This study utilises an extensive, synthetic dataset simulated using a well-validated XBeach-X coastal hydro-morphodynamic model to investigate the effects of both unimodal and bimodal storm conditions on the morphodynamics of the Hurst Castle Spit gravel barrier beach, located on the Southwest coast of the United Kingdom. The dataset is used to analyse the key drivers that govern the spatio-temporal gravel barrier morphodynamic responses to storms and to quantitatively explore the morphodynamic states of the barrier. Storm wave height combined with water level (with tide and storm surge) primarily determines the morphodynamic response of the barrier beach for a given pre-storm barrier geometry. The study also revealed that swell waves can be a defining factor for morphodynamic change where different swell percentages can lead to very different responses.
Keywords: gravel barrier, beach erosion, XBeach numerical model, bimodal wave spectrum , sediment transport, morphodynamics
College: Faculty of Science and Engineering
Funders: EPSRC