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The morphodynamic response of a gravel barrier to unimodal and bimodal storm wave conditions

KRISTIAN IONS, Khan Ozdemir, Douglas Pender, Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo, Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo

Frontiers in Marine Science, Volume: 10

Swansea University Authors: KRISTIAN IONS, Dominic Reeve Orcid Logo, Harshinie Karunarathna Orcid Logo

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DOI (Published version): 10.3389/fmars.2023.1087771

Abstract

Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adversestorm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beachesis vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. Here, weuse a synthetic dataset to investigate the morphodynamic response...

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Published in: Frontiers in Marine Science
ISSN: 2296-7745
Published: Frontiers Media SA 2023
Online Access: Check full text

URI: https://cronfa.swan.ac.uk/Record/cronfa65552
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Abstract: Gravel barrier beaches can offer natural protection to coastlines from adversestorm conditions. Understanding the morphodynamics of gravel barrier beachesis vital for the effective and sustainable management of these systems. Here, weuse a synthetic dataset to investigate the morphodynamic response of the gravelbarrier beach at Hurst Castle Spit, located on the Southwest coast of the UnitedKingdom, to both unimodal and bimodal storms. This spit is exposed to wind andswell waves propagating up the English Channel from the Southwest approachesand has suffered repeated storm erosion. The results are analyzed to identify thekey drivers that govern the spatio-temporal gravel barrier morphodynamicresponses to storms and to explore the morphodynamic states of the barrier.We found that the morphodynamic response of the barrier beach is stronglyinfluenced by the combination of storm wave height and still water level. Further,the presence of swell waves can be a controlling factor in the barrier response.
Item Description: Data availability statement:The original contributions presented in the study are included in the article/supplementary materials. Further inquiries can be directed to the corresponding author/s.
Keywords: Gravel barrier, beach erosion, XBeach numerical model, bimodal wave spectrum,sediment transport
College: Faculty of Science and Engineering
Funders: The project was jointly funded by the Welsh Government's European Social Fund (ESF) programme for East Wales and JBA Consulting, UK. Grant number EP/R51312X/1 for the EPSRC grant.

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